If you've been digging through your old range bags or scouring the back of your reloading bench, you might have realized that finding a steady supply of 38 s&w brass is getting a bit tougher these days. It's a classic, old-school caliber, but for those of us who still enjoy shooting vintage top-break revolvers or those sturdy old British service pistols, it's a component we just can't do without. It isn't like .38 Special or 9mm where you can just trip over spent casings at the local range; you have to be a bit more intentional about how you source it and, more importantly, how you take care of it.
Why This Brass is a Different Beast
One of the first things people realize when they get their hands on some 38 s&w brass is that it's surprisingly short. It looks like a "stubby" version of a .38 Special, but don't let the visual similarity fool you. The two are definitely not interchangeable. The .38 S&W case is actually slightly wider in diameter than its more famous "Special" cousin. If you try to shove a .38 Special into a chamber meant for .38 S&W, it usually won't go—and if you try to fire a .38 S&W in a .38 Special chamber, it simply won't fit because the case body is too fat.
That extra width is actually a good thing for us reloaders. It gives the brass a bit of a beefier feel despite its short stature. However, because it's an older design, the pressures it's meant to handle are quite low. Most of the guns chambered for this—think the S&W Terrier, the Victory models, or the Enfield No. 2—weren't built to handle modern high-pressure loads. When you're working with this brass, you're usually aiming for "gentle" rather than "hot."
Sourcing Your Brass Today
So, where do you actually find 38 s&w brass without spending a fortune? To be honest, it's a bit of a hunt. You aren't likely to find it at the big-box sporting goods stores. Your best bet is usually looking for specialty manufacturers. Starline is often the go-to for many of us because they actually run batches of it fairly regularly. If you see it in stock, my advice is to grab a few hundred pieces immediately. It's one of those calibers that can disappear from the market for six months at a time while the big manufacturers focus on 5.56 or 9mm.
Another trick is to look for "New Old Stock" at gun shows. You'll occasionally find those old yellow or white boxes of Remington or Winchester components. Just give them a quick look to make sure they haven't developed any weird corrosion or "zinc rot" from sitting in a damp garage for thirty years. If the brass looks shiny and the mouths aren't cracked, it's usually good to go.
Dealing With Picky Chambers
One thing I've noticed with 38 s&w brass is that some vintage guns have very tight tolerances, while others—especially old military surplus Enfields—have chambers that feel like a cavern. If you're shooting brass that has been fired in a "loose" chamber, it might take a bit of extra effort to resize it back down to factory specs.
I've found that using a high-quality carbide sizing die is the way to go. It saves you from having to use case lube, which is always a plus in my book. Just keep an eye on the base of the brass. If you see a bright ring forming near the bottom after resizing, that's a sign the brass is stretching too much, and you might be heading toward a case head separation.
Reloading Considerations for Longevity
Since this brass isn't exactly growing on trees, you want to make it last as many firings as possible. The good news is that because the pressures are low, 38 s&w brass can actually last a long time if you treat it right.
Watch Your Flare
When you're expanding the case mouth to seat a new bullet, try to use the absolute minimum amount of flare necessary. The .38 S&W uses a slightly larger bullet than the .38 Special (usually .360 or .361 inches rather than .357 or .358). Because you're working with a wider bullet, it's tempting to really open up that case mouth. Don't do it. The more you work the brass by flaring it out and then crimping it back down, the sooner that mouth is going to split. I try to flare just enough so the bullet sits on top without tipping over.
Annealing: Is it Worth It?
Some people swear by annealing their 38 s&w brass, but honestly, for such a short case, it can be a bit of a pain. However, if you've got a rare headstamp or you're down to your last fifty pieces, annealing the necks can help soften the metal and prevent those dreaded splits. If you do decide to do it, just be careful not to heat the base of the case. You want the bottom to stay hard and structural while the top stays pliable.
Cleaning and Maintenance
I'm a bit of a stickler for clean brass, not just because it looks better, but because it's easier on your dies. For 38 s&w brass, I prefer wet tumbling with stainless steel pins. It gets the primer pockets perfectly clean, which is important for this caliber since many of the old guns have somewhat weak firing pin strikes. You want that primer seated perfectly deep and on a clean surface to ensure it goes bang every time.
If you prefer dry tumbling with walnut or corn cob media, that works too. Just make sure you check the inside of the cases. Since they are so short and wide, it's easy for a piece of media to get stuck in there, and you don't want that taking up space when you're dropping your powder charge.
The Bullet Diameter Dilemma
We can't really talk about the brass without mentioning what goes inside it. As I mentioned, the .38 S&W was originally designed for a .361-inch diameter bullet. If you use standard .357 bullets meant for a .38 Special, they might be a bit "rattly" in the bore, which can lead to poor accuracy and lead fouling.
When you're seating those larger .361 bullets into your 38 s&w brass, you might notice a slight bulge in the side of the case. This is totally normal. As long as the round chambers easily in your revolver, you're fine. It's just the nature of the beast when you're stuffing a wide bullet into a thin-walled case.
Keeping Things Safe
It's worth repeating: always check the condition of your firearm before you start loading up your 38 s&w brass. A lot of the "Hinged-Frame" or "Top-Break" revolvers from the late 1800s and early 1900s are made of softer steel. They weren't designed for smokeless powder in some cases, or at least not the modern, faster-burning stuff.
If you're shooting an antique, stick to the lower end of the load data. Your brass will thank you by not stretching, and your gun will thank you by not shaking itself loose. I've seen some old Iver Johnsons that have "timed out" because people treated them like they were modern Rugers. Respect the age of the equipment.
Final Thoughts on the Hobby
Working with 38 s&w brass is really a labor of love. It's for the folks who appreciate the history of the "British Service" round or the pocket pistols of our grandparents' era. It takes a little more patience to find the components and a little more care to assemble the rounds, but there's something incredibly satisfying about taking a hundred-year-old revolver to the range and seeing it perform perfectly.
If you treat your brass well—keep it clean, don't over-flare the mouths, and keep your pressures reasonable—a single bag of brass can keep you shooting for years. It's an investment in a disappearing part of ballistic history, and honestly, that's half the fun of being a reloader anyway. Just keep your eyes peeled for those Starline bags and keep those vintage wheels turning!